One of the best things on our
trip to Cambodia in March was a street food tour in Phnom Penh led
by Urban
Forage. They provided a
great guide and a tuktuk and driver. It was an amazing chance to try
all sorts of casual snacks and meals, the kind of stuff that always
looks so interesting but too intimidating to try on my own. Places were
vetted for food safety for delicate Western stomachs and our guide did a
great job teaching us about the food.
It was so fun and delicious! There’s some photos here and here. Cambodian
food is roughly similar to Thai and Vietnamese food, but is its own
thing.
First up was the “famous grandma noodle
shop”, a home cooking restaurant with the kind of fish noodle
soups I loved in Cambodia. This place was a restaurant with a choice
of items but also very casual. We had both a chicken noodle soup and the
fish noodle soup, both “curry” flavored but clearly Cambodian, not Thai.
The rice noodles are super fresh, made that morning, kind of gelatinous
and stuck together. The soup had such deep delicious flavor. And lots of
fresh ingredients to liven it up: limes, basil, a bunch of unfamiliar
herbs like fishwort.
The second place was a sidewalk stand near Wat Botum Park. Rice
crepe with turmeric, stuffed with chicken and sprouts, dipped in
fish sauce / lime juice. Also a rice flour ball with chives in it,
fried, dipped in coconut cream. it reminded me a lot of dosas and idlis.
Very yummy and seemed like solid daily food.
Our third stop was for a baguette with crispy pork belly inside, some
herbs, also a fresh carrot pickle. Similar to banh mi. We enjoyed it,
all nice and fresh, but at this point we started to realize we were in
for a long haul of lots of food.
The fourth place was in the Russian market and served barbeque.
Various kinds of pork cuts, we had spare ribs. Very crispy fried and
quite fat. Was too full to enjoy it all but it tasted great.
Fifth was 54ល្ងាចស្រស់ (on Facebook)
a restaurant with general Khmer foods, lots of beer, and a live band.
Food was a mix of things, all pretty good. My favorite was a squid
salad-like dish. This was where we had the stunt food, insects. One big
tarantula was OK but silly: legs were delicious like soft-shelled crab.
The spicy crickets were pretty good beer snacks. The place was a bit
touristy but honest, a place I could imagine going even without a
guide.
Absolutely full of food and beer, sixth the guide took us to a
roadside stall selling a sweet dish. A rice crepe stuffed with fresh
coconut meat and a rice candy, some sweetened condensed milk. Quite
tasty in its simple freshness. It was a little like this
video labelled num lon ong chek.
Our final stop was a return to Western familiarity. The wild cocktail bar, a
French-run place with coffee, drinks, and spring rolls. Good cocktails,
nice outdoor seating.
Street food tours may be my favorite new tourist activity! We also
did one in Saigon that was fun but not quite as good as this one in
Phnom Penh. But in Saigon we also did a cocktail tour
from this company, that
was terrific.